Isla Ometepe and Monkey Island
04. May, 2009 
23 Comments
Nearly 6 years ago, a coworker went to Nicaragua and visited Isla Ometepe. I didn’t know the name of it then, just that there were two volcanoes in the middle of a lake in Nicaragua. I google-mapped the satellite view and saw the white puffs of smoke from each volcano, the dusty road that lined the parameter, the vast blue lake rippled with tiny waves. They have freshwater sharks here, the only place in the world, a feat achieved as the ocean bay slowly filled in and formed the lake over thousands of years.
It’s been on my must see list ever since.
We booked a room in Granada, our first stop in Nicaragua, but before getting too comfortable, we took the shuttle south to San Jorge, where we could catch the ferry to the island. It was standing room only, and everyone was pressed against the rails as we disembarked. We managed a spot on the second floor, a fact we would soon find out that makes no difference.
The ferry just goes. The waves are choppy and the ferry cuts through them losing no speed. The boat dips, crests a wave, then crashes down again and no one takes their foot off the gas. Within in moments, the ferry plowed through a large wave and the spray reach the top levels. We’re soaked. The folks on the floor below us are scrambling for covered. They look like they just got back from a water park.
As travelers we have everything we own with us. It would take days for my books to dry out. Thankfully we packed our laptops in such a way they couldn’t get wet. They were the only things.
We booked a place on the smaller of the two volcanoes, just an hour car ride away, which is misleading because the rough roads kept our speed to 5-10 mph the entire trip. It’s quiet here at 7 pm. Just the sound of us shuffling along the dirt road and the din of cicadas surround us. Thankfully the hotel offers a dinner buffet, nothing else is open. We’re here. In the middle of Lake Nicaragua in the most untouched location I’ve been in for a long time. It’s so peaceful you can feel it, like it has it’s own sensation. It’s not uncommon to be caught in a reverie here. To stop talking and slip away and let yourself examine the quiet.
In fact, if I could honeymoon again, this is where I’d do it. Our rooms even look ready for the event, with crisp white sheets, a gossamer mosquito net draped tastefully, and our towels folded into swans with fresh picked flowers. On our second floor bungalow, you can see the lake and enjoy the breeze on our personal hammock. All of this for $28/night. Blissed.
We stayed for four days. We took long walks. Ran into horses and chickens that roam the island. Counted geckos from the hammock. Looked for those sharks in the water off the end of a pier. Kayaked. Hiked. Ate sandwiches with fresh made bread.
It felt like we did so much, but we missed a lot too… like climbing to the hot springs at the top of the volcano, or diving off the waterfalls or horseback riding or camping… much to still see if we return.
On the last day we explored Monkey Island. Not on foot, no, we were warned that the monkeys don’t take kindly to visitors– instead gliding along the edge of the island, on our kayak, taking pictures. Someone brings fresh fruit and rough grains to feed the monkeys. We spied a family of three, the baby monkey the most curious about us, jumping from limb to limb to get a little closer. Maybe too close. This was the highlight of the trip, sitting in that kayak, watching the monkeys. Until the mom-monkey charged at us. And I thought for sure I was going to be monkey-dinner. I was taking video at the time, but what you miss right after I drop the camera is the monkey jumping to the last branch about an arms length from me and barring it’s sharp little teeth at me, while I wave my kayak paddle in the air because, well, I thought the monkey might jump on my head. Yes, true story. But there’s video! Ha! Enjoy.
That sounds amazing! Do you mind dropping the name of the place you stayed at? I’d love to make it there some day, it looks very pretty.
That mama monkey looks fierce! Your trip sounds idyllic, this is a great post!
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It sounds amazing and looks beautiful. Nicely done. Monkey Island is a place I would never want to visit. I hate monkeys, for reasons your video illustrates.
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Always nice to cross something off the must see list. Crazy monkeys, though!
I’m with steve. Ever since monkeys attacked me in thailand, i hate them. I’ll go visit the area but skip monkey island
nomadicmatt´s last blog post..The Weekly Photo: King’s Canyon
I love, love, love Nicaragua, and Ometepe has a special place in our hearts. We wanted to climb the volcano but it rained like mad the entire time we were there last October (but our ferry ride was surprisingly calm!). Just breathing in all the details of island life is awesome though.
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Thanks for this post… I am heading to Nicaragua for a week in November and this is definitely a place I want to go… what was the name of the hotel where you stayed on the Island for $28… sounds delightful
Thanks for the post. Recently discovered your blog, slowly reading the back story. I was on Omotepe way back in 2005, sounds like in hasn’t changed at all in the 4 years since I went!
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Great post! I’m new to your blog and am really enjoying your writing. Lake Nicaragua and Monkey Island sound pretty heavenly. I’ve never been to the area and would love to get there someday.
Erin @ What A Trip´s last blog post..What A Trip: Spain and Portugal
Like Erin I’d also love to visit Lake Nicaragua. I can understand that you waved your kayak paddle in the air. I’d probably have done the same thing!
BTW, sorry for not participating in National Travel Writing Month in April. Hopefully next time!
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Thanks for clueing me in to this place. It’s on my list now.
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Нет,по настоящиму улыбнул 8 пункт,просто представил такую ситуацию ))).
Great video
Кстати, если закончаться фото Одри, то можешь в фотошопе старые фото накладывать на новый фон, так и разнообразие будет и ты работать продолжишь
Действительно удивили и порадовали
Никогда не поверил бы, что даже такое бывает 
Sounds absolutely amazing and the picture is gorgeous – talk about a picture postcard!
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curious…
And then?
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Sounds brill – off to look for tickets now
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I first read about this area from Nerdy Nomad who did a write up on Project Bona Fide, and thought it sounded very cool. Came back here to check out your post on the area. Sounds like a very cool place to check out. Would love to get onto that Project Bona Fide for a while, but I suppose even if I don’t, just backpacking through it would be pretty cool. Did you manage to see any of the freshwater sharks?
I’ve just finished a month at Finca Bona Fide and loved it so much I plan to head back at the end of my time in Nicaragua. So I can still recommend it!
Just as a side note… where are you Christine?
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My name is Sara Lemieux and I am living in San Juan del Sur traveling to Ometepe this weekend. Your blog post titled Ometepe and Monkey Island was exciting and I am curious about where you were staying. I am looking for the most PERFECT getaway!
Thanks a million and keep up the good work!!
Sincerely,
Sara
Sara Lemieux´s last blog ..
Hi Sara,
I should have put this in the post! I stayed at hacienda merida: http://www.hmerida.com/
I think you can make reservations online, but if you speak some spanish, you can just call to reserve. It is a 30 minute cab ride from the ferry dock, so don’t expect to walk it! But I loved it there. Have fun!
–Christine