The Shrinking World

on 4-01-2009 in Travel Lifestyle

Central America, Small world, global travel, perspective,

I spent two weeks in Tamarindo. It was my last stop in Costa Rica, before I headed north to Nicaragua. The hostel was perfect. La Botella de Leche has it all: offbeat décor (think cows everywhere), open air seating, a full kitchen, and an owner who you want to get to know (a women from Argentina, who would have lunch with you, or let you borrow a surf board). I was stretching my time here. I loved seeing Costa Rica and I had come to a conclusion: it would never be like this again.

You travel to expand your world. Instead you shrink it. Relative distances get smaller. Countries that were a vague concept are now clearly defined. You know the major bus routes. You know what to expect in certain cities. You have climbed the hill and know what is on the other side.

Before my travels in Central America, my mental image was so different. It feels smaller now. It’s safer than many major US cities. It has it’s wonderful parts and it’s ugly sides too. But the feeling consuming me in the last few weeks in Costa Rica was pre-emptive nostalgia. It would never be as exciting to be in Puerto Viejo, as the first time, when I saw the massive waves and churning sea. I would probably never spend time in San Jose again. Or Jaco. I won’t be able to surf for the first time in Mal Pais or meet the same people.

If I do return, it will always be a comparison. Fresh, New, Exciting– I’ve used those things up.

On a larger scale, I worry about these things. It probably seems weird, for someone who has traveled to 16 countries in the last year, to be concerned that she will run out. But the truth is, one day I will. The world is finite. And for me, it’s getting smaller all the time.

So I’ve started hoarding places. One of my first dream locations, the most exotic place I could think of in those days, is Thailand. I’m saving it. India. Easter Island. The Galapagos. Morocco. I will go, but not yet. I burned through Paris, Rome, Barcelona, Belize, Panama. As much as I want to see everything, I’m slowly becoming aware that the excitement of the unknown is as large a part of my impetuous to travel as actually being there.

Is that why world travelers continue to find more and more obscure locations? Do they forever chase the thrill of seeing something for the first time? If you travel long term, perhaps you have had a similar feeling. You’re in a new city and two weeks in, you still like it, but you’re ready for the next thing. It’s time to go. Where does it end?

For most people, it ends when the trip does. One year later, a few pounds lighter and broke, they return home, slightly burned out from living in their backpack. They travel for the rest of their lives, but usually never for a year again. In two weeks a year, it’s almost impossible to see everything. But what if you don’t stop?

As they say, this is a ‘quality problem‘. I am aware.

In Tamarindo, I tried to make mental snapshops. The guy on the beach who talked to me for an hour while my husband surfed. He was from Nicaragua, but wanted to live in Texas. The way the rice and beans taste slightly seasoned here. The dusty road and iguanas that peek out from the brush. The fat limes that drop on the hostel roof with a loud thud. Talking to a kid from Holland, who did impressions of American actors. The snowboarder from Montreal who wanted Quebec to form their own country. Making homemade guacamole for everyone in the hostel. Little things, yes. But it’s the best I can do. Appreciate now, travel as slow as I can bear, and while it won’t last, and it’ll never be the same, I still have right now.

My Mail-Order Husband

on 4-01-2009 in Travel Lifestyle

Here’s how it works.  You travel Central America for a few months, grow weary of street vendor come-ons and a hostel bunk bed for one, then in a fit of desperation you send off the email.  Come here, now.  And he does.

Who knew all I had to do was ask?

It took some finagling.  He had been helping his dad with with the house in Vermont.  They didn’t sell it.  But they did find a family to rent it.  The dogs?  Well, in order to travel on short notice, and to have the flexibility we needed, they are staying with the in-laws until July.  And my husband?  After far too long apart, he has finally joined me in Costa Rica.

Just like ordering a husband online, except less expensive and he doesn’t need a green card.  Oh and we’ve already been married for five years.  How sweet is that?

So I’ve gotten to share some of my favorite parts of Costa Rica and he’s gotten to work on his surfing.

Besides the obvious benefits of having my spouse with me (like how awesome it is, verses say, not), there are some things I’d either forgotten or didn’t know.

It’s much cheaper to travel as two, if you calculate the per person cost.  For the same price as two dorm beds, we get a private room.  When you grocery shop for two, the prices for staples (like oil, salt, pepper, spices etc) get split too.  Even when we take a shuttle, the price is lower (in some cases) than if I traveled alone.

Traveling with someone is completely different than traveling alone.  And that’s not always a good thing.  When it’s just me, I have many more adventures (read: get myself into trouble).  I also tend to meet more people.  I don’t know if we put out the “we’re a couple leave us alone” vibe, but it’s been a lot less social.  We still meet people, but if anyone is afraid traveling alone is lonely, I actually find it to be about 10X more social.

I tend to want to travel even slower. I have no idea why this is, but I’m more likely to stay in a place with my husband than if I traveled alone.  Perhaps it’s because it’s less boring.  If nothing’s happening, I’m perfectly content sitting on the beach and reading a book for a few days, if I have good company.  Which, I now do.

I speak Spanish less. This is due to two things.  First, my husband doesn’t speak it very well, so when someone comes and chats us up in Spanish, he’s left clueless for the next hour.  I try to translate as we go, but it doesn’t always work well.  The other thing is that I want him to learn!  So if we’re speaking Spanish to get directions or a reservation, I’ll sit back and let him work it out.  I could jump in and handle it, but he’ll never learn that way.

I eat more. I had forgotten this!  Three meals a day.  Right.  Not coffee, snack, fruit, something from a street vendor.  Those aren’t meals, after all.  When you’re traveling solo, what’s the point of making a big meal?  And now that he’s back, all I do is cook!  Who’s making guacamole from scratch in the kitchen?  Me.  Who is cooking enough pasta to choke a horse?  Me.  Who’s made a traditional Tico breakfast, including fried plaintains?  Sorry, my man’s gotta eat!

I remember why I do all this. I love traveling, but I really love sharing it with someone.  I’d been trying to describe my life here, but as soon as he came, he was amazed.  He loves it.  I’m like, yeah, I know.

It’s been a good week.

A Digital Nomad’s Hostel Survival Guide

on 4-01-2009 in Travel Lifestyle

Today’s guest post is by Derek Johanson, from LiveUncomfortably.com.

For the digital nomad, hostels can be a blessing and a curse. On the one hand, they provide cheap rooms and great social atmosphere. But on the other hand, they provide endless sources for distraction.

As a digital nomad, you’ll inevitably end up staying in hostels along your travels. Here’s a quick survival guide for making it out alive with your job or business still intact.

If You Stay In A Hostel Don’t Work There

Find an internet cafe or somewhere with Wi-Fi nearby to get your important work done. Hostels are full of people who are on vacation. They have very little interest in working or understanding of those who are. They will distract you and try to pressure you into doing something.

It’s easier to not give them the chance. Get out of the hostel to do your work.

Don’t spend this time checking Facebook or Twitter. Power through your most important tasks and save your social media time for back at the hostel when distractions are welcomed.

Get An Eye Mask And Earplugs

I’ve stayed in a 22 person dorm room before. Imagine the amount of noise 22 people make during the night. People come in and out, snore loudly, turn the lights on, and have sex. You name it, it goes down in hostels.

If you need to get a good night’s sleep, get an eye mask and earplugs. You may look funny, but even the most vigorous sex noises will be tuned out.

Put Limits On Your Drinking

Hostels are synonymous with alcohol consumption. It doesn’t matter what night of the week it is, some one or some group is going to be drinking at the hostel. If you’re anything like me and like your liquor, it’s very easy to get caught up with the crowd.

If you have work that needs to be done the next day and a clear mind is necessary you’re going to have to either a) put a limit on your drinking or b) avoid it all together.

The best strategy for avoiding it is staying out of the hostel until later in the evening. Go have a long dinner and write a little bit. Chat with some locals before returning to the hostel. Usually, people will have gone out by this time and you avoid the peer pressure.

Meet The locals

I see it time and time again. A large group from the hostel goes and out and just talks amongst themselves. What’s the purpose of being in a foreign country if you’re not going to interact with the locals?

The digital nomad is traveling because he or she wants to experience something new and exciting – like a culture.

If you don’t know any of the language, learn some. You’d be surprised how far even just a basic knowledge of the language will get you. Most of the time, a little bit of alcohol is the only conversational lubricant you need to have hours of fun with locals.

Local friends will keep you out of the hostel and show you real city, not just the tourist spots.

Finding An Apartment Is Easier Than You Think

If you’re going to be staying in a city for a long time, then an apartment is the way to go. It shouldn’t be too hard to find one if you do a bit of digging. Check the local newspaper and ask the hostel workers.

I’ve now found 4 different apartments in Central and South America in 7 months with very little trouble. The best site I’ve come across for getting an apartment fast is CompartoDepto.com. Also try CouchSurfing.com and Craigslist.org.You can even negotiate long term stays at some hotel/resorts. All you have to do is ask.

Don’t get me wrong, hostels are fun. I’ve made great friends and had some awesome experiences staying at hostels. I’ve been the one pressuring people to go out on several occasions. But, if you’re a working digital nomad with a ton of work to get done and you can’t avoid staying in a hostel, you’ve got to have some distraction diversion plans.

___________
Derek’s philosophy on life can be described in two words, ‘Live Uncomfortably.’ His blog chronicles his experiments in micro testing his philosophy and creating his personal lifestyle design.

Website:
http://LiveUncomfortably.com

Travel Ban to Cuba Likely to be Lifted– Then What?

on 4-01-2009 in Travel Lifestyle

I don’t normally talk politics on here, but this subject fascinates me, so bear with me.

A bi-partisan bill was introduced into the House and Senate earlier this year, that would lift the 50 year ban on travel to Cuba.  Today the sponsoring senators reported that Congress is ready.  In political-speak this means they’ve talked to enough senators to know that if it went for a vote, it would pass.  Soon, Americans will be able to travel to Cuba.  Legally.

An estimated 3 million Americans would take them up on the offer.

To put that into perspective, there are currently about 1 million tourists from around the world that travel to Cuba each year.  We would multiple that by four. A 2002 study predicted a $1.2-1.6 billion travel industry would be created overnight.  23,000 new jobs.

Maybe I’m getting ahead of myself, but this brings up a lot of questions, namely:

What will this mean for Cuba?

I have a prediction.  Obama requested that the Cuba travel restriction be looked at– i.e. get rid of it.  But why?  Personally, I think he wants to lift the trade embargo.  Lifting the travel restriction is the first step, but after that, it seems inevitable.  Think about it.  If you go to Cuba as a tourist, can you bring back a t-shirt?  How about a box of Cuban cigars?  Will they be searching 3 million tourists for contraband?  Or go further than that.  Currently US companies can’t do business with Cuba.  But when the hoards arrive, they need to be fed, entertained, housed, and transported.  Are there enough cars?  Building materials?  Food?  Technology?  If you’re traveling to Cuba on vacation, will you be blocked from checking your US email?

Someone needs to supply Cuba with the goods and services to meet their new demand.  Will that business go straight to foreign companies or will US based firms start lobbying Congress to get their share?  What about US Cruise companies, can they dock in Havana?  Or travel agents booking hotels, flights, tours?  Especially if you consider that opening up travel to Cuba could decrease travel to US destinations– folks aren’t going to take more vacations, and a trip to Cuba might look better than say, Miami.  In effect we’re shifting travel dollars away from US companies.

If you lift the travel restriction, you have loosened the trade embargo.

It’s not a long leap of logic to think the rest of it could unravel too.  The trade embargo hasn’t worked.  It’s been 50 years.  And having a “sort-of” embargo, where you funnel a billion dollars into their economy but prevent the import of Cuban products (like cigars) is a watered down version of an unsuccessful tactic.  So how long will it be until we say, “what’s the point?”

So Cuba is opened to travel, but what will the tourists find?

Right now?  A crumbling infrastructure, a frustrating lack of goods, limited accommodations, outdated technology.  I’m not sure how they will handle the influx.  Will they move Cubanos further away from the cities in order to house the tourists?  Will they allow private enterprise?  Will the government create the infrastructure?  When I visited Cuba earlier this year, I remember watching the tourists walk by the major sites, and thought to myself– imagine if every person here was suddenly 3 or 4 people.   It would be staggering.

What about the Cubanos?

Here’s what we know:  tourists bring money.  Selling things on the street is already big business.  Some people have reported doctors quitting their practice to become waiters because they make more in tips.  But if you triple or quadruple the tourist volume, more and more people will make their living either selling things on the black market, working in the service industry or worse, the sex trade.  Part of what has worked for Fidel, is that everyone is equally poor in Cuba.  But if you can make $5 an hour selling stuff on the street, you will have a drastically different standard of living than the $20/mo average wage.  So will Cubanos become backdoor capitalists?

Is it possible to destabilize a country, simply by going there?

I’m excited for the travel restriction to be lifted.  But I’ve been to Cuba, I’ve seen how they live so I’m worried for them and how this will impact their lives.  This isn’t as straight forward as opening up the floodgates.  It’s been 50 years, and it’s wonderful that we’re removing the restriction, but I hope it’s done with some care and thought.  And if it becomes necessary, the US should be willing to assist Cuba with any of the consequences of our arrival.   I would hate to hear that Cubanos went without anything because of the new tourism or that they were unduly taken advantage of by predatory companies.

If you haven’t been to Cuba, now might be a really good time to go.  One thing is for sure, it will never be the same again.