Surfing is Good
30. Mar, 2009 
17 Comments
You go to Mal Pais for the surfing. A single dirt road runs along the stretch of ocean, dotted with surf shops, outdoor restaurants and a single grocery store. There are iguanas and beach dogs, squirrel and howler monkeys and the bananas cost 10 cents each. But you’re not here for that, you’re here for the waves that come one after another, in a smooth curl, crashing again and again into whitewater. Everyone has the same idea. Sleep in until 8, make some pancakes at the hostel, grab your board and head down to the beach. Little kids are catching waves. How hard could it be?
So I finally tried surfing. I rented a $12 board for the day, strapped the leash onto my ankle and went into the water. You paddle into the waves, going forward five feet, then pushed back three. You make it past the breaking waves. There’s a moment of quiet, then a swell. You lay on your board, belly rubbing against the waxed surface and start paddling like mad towards the shore. You’re going! Sliding across the water, perched on a wave, trying to remember how to push up, and swing your feet beneath you into a standing position. You launch yourself up, lose your balance and fall spectacularly.
Woo hoo!
Then you’re hooked. You catch more waves and try to stand better. You figure out standing and you try to catch better waves. You look for the perfect one. When it goes well you’re euphoric, when it doesn’t you laugh and shake salt water out of your ear. A few hours later you’re exhausted, upper body muscles fatigued to uselessness. Sunburnt. Rubbed raw from the board. Blissed out.
Then you’re laying on a hammock, feeling good, thinking about all the expats in town, who quit their jobs, gave up everything, to surf this wave. I can understand that.
If you think about it, surfing is the perfect endorphin sport. You’re soaking in vitamin D from the constant sun, you’re in the ocean, which can be invigorating in itself and then physically exerting yourself for a few hours and your reward for all of this? Feeling the rush of catching a wave. It’s like a runner’s high times 10. Good stuff.
If you find yourself in Costa Rica, wondering if you should try surfing for the first time, I’d say go for it. Rent a board, make some surfer friends, have them push you in front of your first wave, then laugh when you promptly fall off (laughing is optional, but it’s more fun). It’s hard, but if I can do it (albeit just barely) then I’d guess almost anyone can. Then wring yourself out and enjoy a cold beer. Perfect day. You can thank me later.
What an accomplishment! Congrats! I never considered surfing while I was in Costa Rica but your description makes it sound like I might be able to manage my uncoordinated body over a wave.
Fly Girl´s last blog post..Into The Fire
Careful… when the surfing bug bites – it bites hard. All of a sudden you may find yourself only traveling near coastlines…
Enjoy the lotus!
sumdumsurfer´s last blog post..The Year of Living Frugally – Week 52
I love surfing! It’s like the ONE thing in my life that I was just naturally good at. I got up on my first try and road all the way in. After that I fell but I was so proud of that one moment.
Kyle´s last blog post..Futbol Chileno
Oh it sounds like you had a beautiful time. Made me want to leave my snowy abode and find somewhere to learn to surf! Happy travels.
Felt the same thing the first time I tried it out. This is something I look forward to every summer. Look forward to more surfing stories!
Is it hard to get out beyond the breakers? That sounds like the difficult part to me.
Beth Partin´s last blog post..Capitol Hill: Colfax via the 15
Your bang-on description of your surfing experience reminded me of everything I love (and miss) about the sport. Since moving to Canada, my time in Mother Nature’s washing machine strapped to a plank has been minimal at best… kinda sad really…
Masey´s last blog post..Twouble With Twitter
I love your narrative of the day of surfing. I almost felt like I was right there along side you, enjoying the waves and the sun. Sounds like a perfect day in my book. I will definitely add that to the list of “must do”s.
Graham´s last blog post..A Visit to the Museum
I’m so jealous! I spent some time on the beach in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica, but never did get a chance to surf! I’m going to Israel for a bit this summer and I’m hoping to learn there. While not completely about surfing, there’s a really awesome documentary–Surfwise–about the Paskowitz family and how 9 kids were raised on the road in a camper and educated via life experiences.
Emily´s last blog post..How to Become a World Traveler: Step 1
I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf but I guess I’m too afraid … oh well, maybe this summer I’ll have more luck
I officially want to try surfing now. Thanks Christine!
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Now go back to Bocas and surf there – beautiful, isolated, can’t wait to go back!
Melissa´s last blog post..Sunny
Catching your first wave is one of the best feelings in the world. So far I’ve only tested surfing for a few hours in Lanzarote, but would love to give it a go in Costa Rica as well.
Erica´s last blog post..Spanish Slang
Thank you for the follow on Twitter! I have family living in Malpais, and they are opening a fishing/sea kayaking resort, so next time if you want to try something different shoot me an email!
I too tried surfing in Malpais (Heather is a really good instructor there), and found it frustrating but finally was able to get up on the board! It’s very hard work!
There is also an outdoor yoga class towards the end of the Santa Theresa road, on the left (the beach side), perfect for after surfing.
Cheers and happy travels!
Heidi from Savory Tv´s last blog post..Chefs Speak: Obsessed Tv interviews Eric Ripert
I love your site! My friend Zach turned me on to it a few months ago when I learned I was going out of the country for the 1st time. I loved it then, and still do. Your writing is so descriptive, I can almost be there with you! I’m going to be blogging about my adventures in Guatemala too, mostly because of you. You inspired me! Thanks so much for that! If you have any tips on how I could improve my blog, feel free to leave me a comment! I would LOVE to hear from you! Thanks again!
Dori
Dori Nadolny´s last blog post..One week left!