Surfing is Good

You go to Mal Pais for the surfing. A single dirt road runs along the stretch of ocean, dotted with surf shops, outdoor restaurants and a single grocery store. There are iguanas and beach dogs, squirrel and howler monkeys and the bananas cost 10 cents each. But you’re not here for that, you’re here for the waves that come one after another, in a smooth curl, crashing again and again into whitewater. Everyone has the same idea. Sleep in until 8, make some pancakes at the hostel, grab your board and head down to the beach. Little kids are catching waves. How hard could it be?
So I finally tried surfing. I rented a $12 board for the day, strapped the leash onto my ankle and went into the water. You paddle into the waves, going forward five feet, then pushed back three. You make it past the breaking waves. There’s a moment of quiet, then a swell. You lay on your board, belly rubbing against the waxed surface and start paddling like mad towards the shore. You’re going! Sliding across the water, perched on a wave, trying to remember how to push up, and swing your feet beneath you into a standing position. You launch yourself up, lose your balance and fall spectacularly.
Woo hoo!
Then you’re hooked. You catch more waves and try to stand better. You figure out standing and you try to catch better waves. You look for the perfect one. When it goes well you’re euphoric, when it doesn’t you laugh and shake salt water out of your ear. A few hours later you’re exhausted, upper body muscles fatigued to uselessness. Sunburnt. Rubbed raw from the board. Blissed out.
Then you’re laying on a hammock, feeling good, thinking about all the expats in town, who quit their jobs, gave up everything, to surf this wave. I can understand that.
If you think about it, surfing is the perfect endorphin sport. You’re soaking in vitamin D from the constant sun, you’re in the ocean, which can be invigorating in itself and then physically exerting yourself for a few hours and your reward for all of this? Feeling the rush of catching a wave. It’s like a runner’s high times 10. Good stuff.
If you find yourself in Costa Rica, wondering if you should try surfing for the first time, I’d say go for it. Rent a board, make some surfer friends, have them push you in front of your first wave, then laugh when you promptly fall off (laughing is optional, but it’s more fun). It’s hard, but if I can do it (albeit just barely) then I’d guess almost anyone can. Then wring yourself out and enjoy a cold beer. Perfect day. You can thank me later.





