The Cuban Contradiction
13. Feb, 2009 
8 Comments
(photo above: Cubana checking her cell phone)
In a few days, you can get a sense of a place. Still, Cuba alludes me. There is a wicked sense of humor, something that charms me, but also reminds me of the men playing on the deck of the Titanic. It’s all screwed, what can we do–taken to the next level. You can see this in some of the more playful artwork, or when someone teases you, “Look, that’s Fidel’s house” and points to dilapidated building with blown out windows.
The realities of Cuban life are apparent quickly. The pharmacies are sparse, there simply are no goods to sell. People live 3 generations in a single small apartment. The grocery store might have pasta, tins of tomatoes and rum. Depending on what came in that week, there could be other things– one place had tons of mayo, but not much else. Everything is falling apart. If you imagine taking a US city like Seattle, turning everything into free housing and never repairing anything in 50 years, you can imagine the eery feeling of a place locked in time.
Instead of cynical, there is a sweetness. There’s a habit of addressing people who help you as “mi amor” (my love). I noticed my taxi driver saying it after asking someone on the street for directions, and I’ve been hearing ever since. The woman who rented me my room waited up for me until 3 am one night, worried that I wouldn’t make it home safe. When I told her I’d be staying in the next night, she clapped with glee– real glee, she wouldn‘t have to worry, and rushed her mother off to bed. It hadn’t occurred to me that my host would lose sleep over my safety.
I’ve met some people since I’ve been here. I hung out with one friend in the morning, and few hours after we parted he was arrested, held in jail for 5 hours, then released. These things happen, he said. It makes me worry for everyone that just by talking to me they could put themselves at risk. (This time, he was not arrested because of me).
There are artists and musicians who don’t have the supplies for months at a time to make their art, but somehow they manage. Everyone is managing. If you want to get something done, ask a Cuban, they have made an art form out of getting around archaic rules.
People are exceedingly curious about foreigners. When you say you’re from the US, their eyes light up. “My Uncle lives there”. “My cousin has never been to Cuba, he’s coming in April“. “It has been 25 years since I’ve seen them“. The US embargo on Cuba has effected it’s people the most, but they don’t seem to hold it against us. They’ve become adept at distinguishing between a government and it’s people.
I was walking in old Habana, the side streets crammed with Cubans and tourists, musicians and street performers and all I could think about is the big changes that could be just around the corner. If legislation introduced in the Senate this week actually passes, US – Cuba travel restrictions will be lifted. How will this country handle 2 million additional tourists? Will they feel the same way about Americans when for every one tourist they have now, turns into three? Or will they simply be overjoyed to finally see family they been separated from for all these years?
For all the contradictions, the amazing duality in Cuba, there is one more that is difficult to resolve. As much as the embargo has served to only harm the lives of everyday Cubans, it has also largely protected them, allowing them to flourish in some unexpected ways.
Christine
What a great, thoughtful post and how I envy you being in Cuba. I was there 15 years ago and it sounds like it hasn’t changed at all (except for a few more mobiles!)
Tamara´s last blog post..Inside London #2: Out of Africa, into Angel
Having studied all things Cuban for a good five years, living with a Cuban man for as many years, and having been there eight times or so, I can say that what eludes you about Cuba continues to elude repeat visitors, even those who know a lot about Cuba, its history, and current conditions.
I think it’s impossible for a non-Cuban to really “get” Cuba because we don’t really have a point of reference for it. It’s also hard for us to break outside of the “dualities” about Cuba– because that’s all we ever really hear outside Cuba and it clouds our vision from being able to see the complexities of Cuba as a country and as a people. And, like any country, it’s incredibly complex; it’s just that Cuba’s about a million times more so! We hear lots of things about Cuba, file them away as facts or interesting opinions, but even when we’re there, it’s hard to “test” these tidbits out for ourselves.
One other observation: While some things clearly seem that they haven’t changed in 50 years (the buildings, some of the cars, basic infrastructure), I’ve noticed profound changes of all sorts over the past five years. In fact, between September 2007 and May 2008, I was actually shocked by the number and types of changes I’d seen. Cell phones were everywhere. It had become lots easier to bring in all sorts of electronics from abroad, so laptops, big TVs, DVD players, ipods, and all other types of electronics were becoming much more widespread and were (and remain) objects of desire among younger people.
The changes that are imminent in Cuba, irrespective of US policy, will be both good and bad for the country and for the people. They won’t likely make Cuba any less fascinating and elusive, though.
Julie´s last blog post..New York Times Travel Show
I have always been deeply attracted to Cuban culture and have surrounded myself with as much of it as possible. That mostly means music, whether new (Alex Cuba, Orixas) or classic (Compay Segundo). What translates through the music and interviews that I’ve done is that complexity and williingness to overcome whatever obstacle that springs up. The Cuban spirit is strongly vivid and I too have worried about how it will change once the inevitable political changes happen.
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Christine,
Love this article and have always wanted to get to Cuba. I think it’s funny how Americans are bred to “Ignore” Cuba. With such a rich culture how can people afford not to go?
I wonder what type of flourishing could happen there if/when Americans are allowed to travel there? Or if there will be any new arrangements after Castro dies or if his brother will continue to preside over Cuba in the same manner?
-Collins P
http://www.vagabondbible.com
Oh I would love to go there.
Christy´s last blog post..Sponsorship – Part 1
Gracias!
Hey! Nice post. I haven’t been yet but a couple of friend sjust got back and said it was hard going travelling there, but rewarding. If you’re looking for a rewarding experience, check out http://www.hodr.org I’ve been in Haiti for over three months and have loved every moment. Definitely worth a detour!
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Change is in the air. It looks like the Obama administration will ease or end altogether this ridiculous travel situation. So go now, before everyone else does.