Havana: A Little European City in the Middle of the Caribbean
08. Feb, 2009 
13 Comments
My first day in Cuba landed me straight in Havana. I’m not sure what I expected, it is after all a major tourist destination, especially for the likes of Europeans planning on visiting America, who first stop in Cuba. It’s like any international city, perhaps more so. The capital buildings are gorgeous, if not slightly decaying, but this gives it a very European feel. In fact, I’d say Havana outpaces some European cities for the sheer grand spectacle of it’s capital.
If I had posted the pic below unlabeled, would you guess that this façade was one of the many in Cuba’s capital?
I had read the Lonely Planet guide to Cuba, a fascinating find at a Vermont bookstore, considering Americans aren‘t supposed to go there. To be honest, I don’t usually buy guidebooks, but I knew Cuba would be pricey, so I was hoping for some money saving tips. The book spends a good part of a chapter warning potential tourists about the jinteros, the cubanos who try to sell you cigars or lead you to restaurants so they can get an under the table kickback from the owner. The thing they don’t quite warn you about is just how nice and friendly they can be. I’ve been hussled before, but never so well. They are just… charming. One guy came over to me, striking up a conversion, “Friend!” I have friends, I replied. “Well they are fired.” I had to laugh. Oh really? “Yes, where are you from? Want to go to a discoteque?” This is his pitch. There wasn’t much to do except walk away, but with so many people approaching you the first day, it’s hard to not feel like the most popular kid in town (which you are, as long as you have dollars).
The picture below is from the main park, where I didn’t mind having my camera out, even though it meant one older lady practically ran across the park to ask me for spare change. But seriously, even she was nice about it.
From above the city, it’s even more breathtaking. I took this picture eight floors up where they have the mirror obscuro, that lets you see the entire city rotoscoped. The woman working the door said they were closed, but my Cuban friend (an actual friend not a jintero) called her bluff. She was reading her book and didn’t want to be bothered. She made me and my friend hid behind a door while we waited for the elevator so that no one else would know it was open. She turned away a Spanish speaking couple saying, “No… estamos cerrado” (We’re closed). My friend explained she gets paid the same amount no matter whether people come in or not, so why do the extra work. He seemed to think this was due to their cultural system, but I don‘t think it‘s unique to Cuba. Employees cutting corners is pretty much universal.
Signs of the anniversary of the revolution are everywhere, and this is one banner on a building in the capital. They are also selling commemorative posters, which have some of the worst Photoshop work I’ve ever seen. If you like you can get just about anything with picture of Che on it, although when I see local artists incorporating this in their artwork, I have to wonder if it’s not just for the tourists. Later that night, I actually attended a private gallery showing in a Cubano’s home, that had some “subversive” artwork. There was a 5 foot tall rendering of a Cuban passport and visa where the usually legal disclaimer was replace with Spanish text that roughly translated to, “This visa allows you to leave the country one time, after which you can never return. After a (blank) amount of time, we will proceed to confiscate your belongings and you will no longer be a Cuban citizen.” Someone at the showing rolled their eyes and said that art students are always trying to be “extreme”.
One of my favorite parts of Cuba so far is the 1950 style cars that are everywhere. They are in various stages of upkeep, some barely rumbling along, others perfectly restored. The one below was one of the nicest, but definitely not unusual in the city.
I had lunch in Habana Vieja, at a place called the Jardin del Oriente. It was surprising good and much cheaper than anything else I could find which my entrée costing just $3. They also offer free entertainment in the form of a dozen or so small cats that prowl the restaurant, all with the same black and white patch work.
Below is a plaza in Habana Vieja. We cut through to avoid a small parade of street performers, when I fully realized how little Cuban Spanish I can understand. In fact, I can’t understand a single word, when they’re speaking naturally, and when they try to slow down and enunciate I can pick out maybe half of what they say. Julie from Collazoprojects.com (who has traveled to Cuba many times and has been speaking Spanish for a long time) warned me about this difference. I would say, it’s similar to trying to talk to a drunken Scot, with a lisp. Sure, it’s still English, but it might as well be Swahili for anyone with a tenuous grasp on the language.
After my long day of walking, I spent the evening with some new friends drinking 5 year old Cuban Rum and dancing to a mix of American 80s music, Spanish pop and Reggatone. I could have been anywhere in the world.
Love it! And so glad you went to Jardin del Oriente– it’s seriously my favorite (minus all the crazed cats, which kind of kill the atmosphere). When you get back to the States, check out the documentary “Yank Tanks,” which is a fantastic film about all of Cuba’s old cars and what it takes to keep them running. There’s nothing like that film (or visiting my in-laws) to make me want to save a rubber band and think of its thousand uses.
Julie´s last blog post..Gung Hay Fat Choy! (or Happy Chinese New Year!)
Great pics!
One of my friends had the opposite problem, language-wise! She learned much of her Spanish in Cuba, on study abroad, and now has to adapt when she goes elsewhere in Latin America.
But she says it’s helped her connect with Cuban ex-pats, who still immediately recognize her style of speech.
Eva´s last blog post..7 Reasons to Learn Spanish in Chile
Are Americans actually forbidden to go there, or is it they’re just ‘not supposed to’? An American couple I know said that (several years ago) they had to go to Canada first.
Keith´s last blog post..A Look Around Gredos
@Keith:
There are heavy travel restrictions right now. No Americans are allowed. There are some exceptions: you can get a journalist visa. I went around the system and just flew in from Mexico instead. They don’t stamp your passport and from the Cuban side, the more Americans that come the better. There is a chance of getting in trouble for this, but with close to 60K Americans going there every year, almost no one gets busted. You’d have to be extremely stupid (like telling customs on the way back into the States).
So basically what Uncle Sam doesn’t know, can’t hurt him. And Cuba is happy to oblige.
Cuba is on my list of places that I want to travel to. It seems so fascinating. Thank you for sharing the story of the art gallery showing that you went to in someone’s house.
Heather Ahrens´s last blog post..New Blog! Day 1 Giveaway!
But you weren’t “anywhere,” you were in Cuba. Sounds fascinating — especially that subversive art.
Sara´s last blog post..What Foolish Travelers We Once Were
I have longed to go to Cuba for years and the anniversary celebrations make it feel even more urgent. You can also get to Cuba by boat from Jamaica or through college tours, I’ve considered both but never got around to it. This makes me step up my plans!
Fly Girl´s last blog post..Gullah Speech and Spirit
Boldly going where few gringos go. Fantastic. And to think that I’m only 90 miles away when I’m in Key West.
Anthony´s last blog post..Don’t Call It a Comeback
wow – everything looks much nicer and cleaner on your pictures. was there in 2002, and just compared the pictures, seems like a lot of buildings got some new paint recently.
you should stay in the “hotel presidente” (corner calz 7ma/Calle G) for a day or so – totally retro
Oh my, you really *are* fearless, no almost about it. I’m not so courageous, will be waiting until the travel restrictions loosen up.
Lanora´s last blog post..New Twitter toy: a mosaic of your friends
Beautiful images. I, too, love the old-school cars. They reflect a country that has a foot (maybe both) in the past. It makes one wonder: Didn’t the Cold War end 17 years ago? It seems that Cuba is the last remaining reminder of it. If the issue is still “communism,” no better way to bring in capitalism than to let Americans travel there without restrictions.
Gennaro´s last blog post..Travelers Must Help Free Rice And Kiva
Before clicking on this post, I was hoping to see some 1950s cars. You didn’t disappoint.
Great article and photos.