Making and Breaking Friends on Caye Caulker Part 1 of 2
26. Jan, 2009 
18 Comments
I wasn’t sure if I would write about this. I don’t want to discourage women from traveling. But it happened to me, so I figured other women traveling solo have similar stories. We never want to talk about being scared when traveling, it dulls the illusion of a carefree life, but the reality is, it happens, and you’ll have to find a way to deal with all manner of bizarre behavior.
I arrived in Caye Caulker exhausted. I had taken the overnight bus from Guatemala City and hadn’t showered or slept properly in 2 days. I arrived via water taxi, disheveled and road weary. As I walked down the pier, I kept my eyes focused on the wooden slats, too tired to trust myself not to trip and pitch myself headfirst into the water. A taxi driver approached me, his golf cart waiting at the end of the pier.
“I know you need a room.” he said
“I do, but I need something cheap.”
“I know a great place–$18, it’s on the water, do you want me to show you?”
I did. He loaded everything into his golf cart and we were on our way. “I know you’re tired. You just need a beer. Then you’ll be as good as new.” Yeah, probably, I agreed. “Do you want to get a beer now?” He started swerving towards a restaurant on our left. I laughed. We chatted about the island, his life here (he came from northern Belize) and the best places to go on this mile wide swath of land.
Then he invited me to stay with him.
“You know if you think about it, you’ll be saving what, $18 a night times 4, 5, 6 days.”
I laughed.
When we arrived at the hotel I was happily surprised. Set on the far end of the island, there were 6 private cabins just 20 feet from the shore, with a white sand path that lead to a small private beach, pier and a single hammock. The cabin was simple, two beds and a private bath, but it was perfect. I would later find out that similar hotels cost $70 a night or more. I had lucked out. Not only was it a beautiful setting, but set on the far end of the island, where I could enjoy complete quiet and privacy.
Two days later, I was walking back from beach, when I spotted my driver again. He waved to me and drove over, smiling widely. “My name is Jesus. Did you know that?”
He invited me to a bar on the west side. I hopped into his golf cart and we drove across the island to a small place called Pines and Palms. The owner lived next door and when Jesus knocked on the door, he looked like he had been sleeping. We both ordered a beer and the owner started up the karaoke machine. Jesus was enamored with Spanish torch songs, which all have a common theme: my heart is broken, she left me, there is a hole in my life and I want to die.
We sang for hours. It was fun. But soon, people were flooding into the bar and I was getting hungry. I went to pay for my tab and the owner waved me off. Jesus had already paid.
There is one rule I have when hanging out with strangers: always pay for yourself. When you’re traveling alone, it’s natural to make friends, to share a couple of beers, to have a few laughs. But once someone starts paying for you, it changes things. They could be hitting on you. They could think that even though you’re married, the fact that you’re traveling alone means you’re looking for companionship. Or it just could mean he’s just a generous guy who likes to buy women beers. For me, I never take the chance. I knew I needed to get out of there.
Jesus leaned over, likely anticipating my response. “Want to come over to my place? I’ll make you dinner. You’ll like my place.” Someone clapped him on the back, a friend wanted to talk to him. “I’ll be right back.” He leaned over and kissed me on the neck. I suddenly realized that he was drunk and hitting on me. While his back was turned, I took off.
Two-part suspense thriller! I like it.
I think you are very brave to travel on your own anyway. I guess it is a personal bridge that needs crossing and gets easier once you take the plunge.
Chris´s last blog post..5 Reasons to Say Yes More
Smart, smart, smart. I think it’s good to not be closed to new experiences or you may find yourself alone all the time, but it’s important to know where the line is, to draw the line yourself so there’s no doubt and to listen to your instincts. I can’t wait to hear part 2, b/c it seems to me he knows where you’re staying…
Gillian´s last blog post..21 Days…Ready, Set, Move!
Oh boy. I know Belzian men and I have a feeling that he didn’t give up that easily. I think this is a great experience to share, it not about fear but about trusting your instincts and sticking to boundaries.
Fly Girl´s last blog post..Zipping Through The Air
… tell me you did not kick him in the balls!
Seriously though, woman who travel have another layer of interactions to decode, thus articles like this are good.
[F]oxymoron´s last blog post..Ego Juice, Part 2
I think you were brave to take a taxi driver’s recommendation on a room. Does that work for you when traveling, or do you usually book a place in advance?
Beth Partin´s last blog post..MonHaibun: Homecoming
A very impressive use of the “zeigarnik effect.” Looking forward to the next half. Unless, it’s something overly bad.
Gennaro´s last blog post..6 Steps To A Lucky Chinese New Year
Oh I love a great story! Can’t wait till part 2. Yeah I know a couple guys in Belize and they can be very direct if you know what I mean. But I also know some guys that are very very kind people and are great to be around. Hope you enjoyed your time there though!
Christy´s last blog post..Inspiration #7
jesus!! what a crazy story!!!!
Nomadic Matt´s last blog post..How to Spend Your Time in Taiwan
I’d be scared if I was in your shoes. I look forward to Part 2 and hope he wasn’t able to find you!
Grace @ Sandier Pastures´s last blog post..Perfect for Valentine’s Day: Penelope Poet Jewelry Giveaway
Waiting for the part 2 ! I think you were very brave to spend those many hours with him. I couldn’t have.
There is a saying in India meaning if the girl laughs, you can be assured she is for the game.
It’s always the thing, isn’t it? Is someone genuinely trying to be friendly or are they looking for a handout? (or even more, if you’re a woman)
Keith´s last blog post..Arrival in Madrid; Departure for Gredos
I’m looking forward to part two, but I’m not surprised by part 1. Of course he was going to hit on you, am I the only one who saw that coming from a mile away?
My rule for ladies is this. If the guy wouldn’t do something for another guy that he’s doing for you (i.e. helping you find a place, asking for a beer, etc.) then he’s probably thinking you’re into him.
Anil´s last blog post..Axis Of Evil Tour Guide
This is one of the cons of travelling alone. I hope you don’t have a new found stalker on the loose.
Look forward for the second part of the story…
mich´s last blog post..A day in the beach
Arrghhh!! Cliffhangers kill me, including the movie!
Yes, sometimes guys are just nice and buy you drinks. After I’ve had two, I’m liable to pickup a tab no matter who’s with me.
In this case, it was real good idea to turn your your back when he turned his!
Peter Carey´s last blog post..Photo Of The Day – Evening Waves
I feel like I’m reading a book and what comes next will be extremely good or extremely bad! I’m no good with suspense! I’m loving that Jesus hits on girls just like the rest of the male population though hehe!! I look forward to the next part!! jen x
Man behaves like man in Latin America! Alert Hillary Clinton! Call in air strike on my position! Scramble all Special Forces units in theater!