Crossing the Border, Guatemala Style
14. Dec, 2008 
17 Comments
Crossing the Guatemalan border from Mexico was chaotic, scrambled and the perfect transition to my new Spanish-only world.
The driver picked me up at 7:30 AM and 3 hours later dropped me off at the Mexican side of the border. One of the passengers spent 5 minutes screaming in Spanish at the driver. You’re an idiot! This is so stupid! No YOU Shut up!
Hmmm. This can’t be good. Are we supposed to walk through? Is this guy mad because he knows something or because he’s an idiot? The best solution? Just start walking.
The border itself is just a small road with a few buildings. On the side of the road, some folks are burning trash, others are selling food, and dozens of make-shift stalls with everything from kitchen-ware to crocs to woolen ponchos.
I hustled past, hand my passport over to the official. Stamped. Climb onto another van, this time on the Guatemala side.
Three hours later, I’m dropped off at a gas station where little boys are wrestling in between trying to sell shoe shines. No, my sneakers don’t need a shine, thank you. The angry guy gets some french fries and feeds them to stray dogs. I’m ushered to a late model Chrylser and told that “this guy” was going to drive me the rest of the way.
Ok.
I had understood every word of Spanish that the tour operator who sold me the $27 ticket to Xela had said to me. It hadn’t occurred to me to ask if I was going to be riding in some sketchy car for part of the trip. And I’m quite certain he hadn’t described the trip this way: We will drive you to the border, you will find your way through, and hopefully get into the right van on the other side. Don’t worry there will lots of them and no one will speak English. Then we’ll drop you off in some gas station and my cousin will drive you in his dad’s car the rest of the way. Sound good? Great, 350 pesos please.
It was a great introduction into what I would later learn of life in Guatemala. Figuring things out in Spanish (a very good thing) and the laid back way things are run (my first day at the school, I showed up as scheduled at 8 AM, only to wait 20 minutes for someone else to show up) and the immense amount of trust you end up placing in those around you (from living with a family you just met, to hoping that the ice really was made from boiled water).
You have to be cautious too. You can get robbed. You can get hit by a car. You can get swindled. (Oh and that car bit—so serious, the drivers here will mow you over, if you walk in the street). But if you can’t take a few chances, trust a few strangers, then truly you’ll never get over the border.
I’m glad you crossed the border safely! Though I was in a bus, the border between Guatemala and El Salvador was similar. Can’t wait to see more pictures and read about your stay.
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The adventures continue! This is a great example of how to live an adventurous life. You’ll never experience something new if you’re always afraid to take a chance. I want to be Christine when I grow up.
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Sounds very like both my Guatemalan border crossings (Belize – Guatemala & Guatemala – Mexico). Crazy, chaotic, disorganised, often disorientating, occasionally a tad scary, but ultimately all part of the travelling experience, and bizarrely enough now one of my favourite travel memories!
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Those little tid bits make travel interesting. Once you’ve survived those, you’re golden. Look forward to more advertures!
mich´s last blog post..Tuna Talk
Wow, this second part of your travels sure is different than your time in Spain eh? I’m loving it!
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wow. its amazing how these trips work. my brother will drive you in his dad’s car is common in asia too.
This sounds like so many trips I’ve taken in Asia. You just kind of go with it, not knowing what will happen, and hope it works out…and the best part is always seems to!!
Nomadic Matt´s last blog post..Interview with Panama Writer, William Friar
eek!I bet you were glad you’d taken the time to learn some Spanish.
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It makes us Europeans realise how spoilt we are with regard to border crossings. Here, it’s a case of ‘wave, and they might wave back!’ … if you even SEE a Customs or other official as you just bowl through.
Keith´s last blog post..The Christmas Market
I love love love Guatemala. Have fun and be careful, parts can be a little sketchy.
Sounds like you got all the problems you paid a tour operator not to have! I have no problem with finding my own way through and beyond borders, but when I pay for a tour I don’t expect to have to worry about anything like that.
Enjoy your classes; we’ll be there trying to learn Spanish soon enough.
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Great lesson into what the rest of Guatemala will be like….ooooh, the saga will continue.
Great post.
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I plan to travel to guatemala in February, what documents did you need to get a Guatemalan visa? (we are traveling with a 3 year old any hotel suggestions?)
I did get robbed in Guatemala, and still it is one of my favorite places on earth. Check out Lake Atitlan if you have the chance.
I grew up most of my life in Ecuador and always seem to get a little more passionate the second I start speaking Spanish. I particularly love the part about the passenger screaming at the driver! LOL. Latin America ROCKS!
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Sounds hectic! I guess you have to work out how things work over time, at first it is very stressful but then you get used to it.
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