When I announced that I planned to go to Croatia, it was based on a photo I had seen online. It was taken from within a door frame, peering out towards brilliant blue water just few feet away. I thought, “Wow, I have to go there.” When I arrived, I soon found that many others agreed with me, and the country that occupies the coastline across the Adriatic sea from Italy was just as beautiful as that fateful photo.
However as I traveled, I noticed something strange. I didn’t met a single American. This was part of Europe (Croatia will enter the EU around 2010 if things go well) and unlike other European cities I’ve visited, I seemed to be the only one with that familiar blue passport. Why were Americans missing out on the worst kept secret in Europe?
Croatia has a brand name problem
First of all, “Croatia” didn’t always exist. Before 1990 it was part of the former Yugoslavia. When a few countries declared independence and the area later fell into civil war, the Bosnians, Serbs, and Croats made news for 5 years as they fought, signed peace accords and started fighting again. Not exactly the kind of PR that says “visit here”.
Perhaps this is why Americans have kept their distance? I have to admit, I had an embarrassingly poor knowledge of the dissolution of Yugoslavia and following civil war, despite it happening in my lifetime. A little research fixed this. The civil war is long since over, and Croatia even boasts a low crime rate. If you want to read more about it, Wikipedia offers an overview of the history. Also the US State Department has an official summary (and no travel warnings).
It’s safe, but is it that good?
Let me put it this way. If you like azure water, sheltered beaches, cheap prices, ancient architecture, friendly people, access to islands and seafood, then um, yes, you might like it a little. However, there are the beginnings of a tourist culture: stands have popped up selling flip flops and t-shirts, English is widely spoken, and tour boats litter the marina. But compared to the Caribbean, Hawaii, Mexico, the French Riviera, or Greece– Croatia is truly in its infancy. Tourism only picked up in 2000, and I predict it will be a couple more years before the Hilton builds a 16 swimming pool monstrosity that blocks the view for all but the most affluent. For now, it’s a sleepy coastal town that hasn’t quite figured out what to make of all these people who descend every summer.
Once Croatia enters the EU (~2010), prices may go up or they may attract the attention of international hotel developers. Until then, it’s all yours. A place so small that you’ll recognize fellow travelers in town or get to know your waiter’s kids as they sit at the table next to you. In short, it’s unexpected.
[Author's note: Edited to make clear that the civil war was after Croatia declared independence and removed reference to Hungarians. Alas, this is what you get when you use the web as a reference.]
August 21st, 2008 at 8:07 pm
We spent over 46 days in Croatia last August and September and actually met quite a few Americans ( along with tons of Italians and many other nationalities). Many of them come in by cruise ship and you can see them swamping the lovely city of Dubrovnik. We even met Americans on the smaller islands as well as Hvar, Korcula, plus Split, Plitvice and Rovinj…& tiny little Hum.
Certainly not as many Americans as Italy or Paris, but similar to many parts of Europe. Perhaps the count is down this year because of the ever shrinking dollar and recession.
The Germans are busy building up things in Croatia, but I certainly hope they continue to keep the pristine areas like they are today.The drive from Dubrovnik to Split is gorgeous ( and hardly anyone was on the road on the first week of September when the weather cools down and most tourists go home.)
Glad to hear you enjoyed yourself! Lets hope the Americans leave the gigantic cruise ships at home….they swamp beautiful small cities.
soultravelers3s last blog post..Viana do Castelo & Vigo
August 21st, 2008 at 8:22 pm
How to enjoy Croatia ?
1. Why Croatia ?
Croatia is the closest Mediterranean destination to central Europe. It takes 2 hours by plane from London,
45 minutes from Munchen… Croatian natural beauties are significant and amongst the best preserved in the world
( over 5,800 km of coast, over 1,000 islands, numerous national parks … ). More about Croatia find on the official web site
http://www.croatia.hr
2. How to Croatia ?
Traveling by car you have to keep in mind that the traffic is increased in summer season. National ferry line is
http://www.jadrolinija.hr and the national airline company is http://www.croatiaairlines.hr
3. Where in Croatia ?
Although the inland of Croatia is beautiful as well, lot of tourists decide for one of the places along the Croatian coast.
Most of the beautiful places in Croatia are located on the Adriatic sea coast ( National Park Brijuni islands, Roman arena in Pula,
National Park Kornati islands, old towns Dubrovnik, Zadar, Trogir, Sibenik, Split, National Park island Mljet … ).
Having one day trip in inland you can visit more Croatian beauties like National Park Plitvice lakes, National Park on river Krka,
National Park Paklenica, … )
4. Stay (sail) in Croatia ?
Usually tourists rent a hotel room or an apartment and spend a week laying on a beach not aware that there are plenty other places
around worth to be visited. Instead of changing hotels and moving your stuff from one place to another
trying to see as much as possible , you can rent a boat ( skipper if necessary ),
visit all the places along the Croatian coast and islands and have an extraordinary holidays.
Croatian coast has 1000 of islands so there are no big waves and high sea. The conditons are
perfect for nice and easy sailing. There are no long distance routes across the open sea. You can
achor anytime you want and take a swimm. The price for sailing holidays in Croatia is equal
to price for a hotel accomodation.
To answer the question how to enjoy in Croatia - sail in Croatia!
August 22nd, 2008 at 8:21 am
Before I get a bunch of comments citing American spottings in Croatia, let me say, I’m sure there are some or even a bunch of Americans that have traveled there.
But what struck me was how great Croatia is, how little it’s covered in US media as a destination and how little I hear about people going there.
August 22nd, 2008 at 11:40 am
It’s exciting when you go to a place that feels relatively “undiscovered,” especially in this day and age. After visiting big tourist destinations like Paris, it can be particularly nice. I remember hearing the faintest buzz about Croatia when I studied abroad in 2001-2002: all the poor college kids were eating up the cheap beaches! The buzz has grown, but it’s still off-the-radar for most people. I think you’re lucky to have gone now…enough tourist structure but not tourism overload. It will definitely be interesting to see what happens in the coming years, especially post-EU entry. I can’t wait to check out more of your pics!
Theresas last blog post..Help Me Pack
August 22nd, 2008 at 1:35 pm
Agree with all of you. I have been to Croatia twice (2003 and 2006) and am totally in love with the country. It is truly undiscovered by most Americans, but each time I traveled there I ran into some. Some of my favorite spots are Dubrovnik, Korcula, Bol (Slatni Rat beach), and the Makarska Riviera. Zagreb, too, has the feel of a truly European capital and is not to be missed. It helps that each time we visit we spend some time with our Croatian relatives who hail from the Lika area. Americans, please discover this country, but then again, I, for selfish reasons like to go to this undiscovered jewel.
August 22nd, 2008 at 2:48 pm
Where is Croatia is this?
August 22nd, 2008 at 4:25 pm
I’ll add it to the list… the Moon, New Zealand, Hawaii, Iceland, Croatia, Kenya….
Turners last blog post..Bar Flower
August 23rd, 2008 at 9:44 am
I first decided I wanted to visit Croatia when the history channel had a whole show on it. And then I saw an article like this one in NYT - toohttp://travel.nytimes.com/2008/05/04/travel/04journeys.html
I really like how you typically include historical/political background of the places you visit, it really adds a lot of depth to your posts.
sforshners last blog post..don’t forget to take your vacation days
August 23rd, 2008 at 3:14 pm
I stumbled across this text(www.stumbleupon.com) and was really delighted by it since I’m croatian. The only thing I disliked about the text was the reference about the war. To make a long story short, Hungarians were NEVER a part of the war because Serbs never invaded their teritory so they didn’t have any reason to participate. Yugoslavia didn’t “fall apart into civil war”, but after few countries declared their independence, including Croatia, Serbs “declared” the civil war so to say by invading the territory of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina intending to conquer those countries and annexate their territories in order to make Great Serbia. But luckily, they failed because croatian and bosnian people resisted hard enough. And more then 10 years passed since the war ended, so it’s perfectly safe to come visit us.
August 23rd, 2008 at 3:34 pm
hungarians had nothing to do with the war, croatia’s first historical reference is from the 7th century so its one of the oldest europeian countries. just to set a few things straight!
August 23rd, 2008 at 3:43 pm
Thanks Ria and Mico for the clarification. I have made adjustments to the text and noted the change on the bottom.
Mico– regarding Croatia as being part of Europe– at first I was going to keep the phrase “practically” because originally I was thinking about it from the perspective of the EU, but I’ll take you point and I’ve made the change.
Thanks again, and I appreciate the feedback… I definitely enjoyed my time in Croatia and didn’t mean to gloss over any of the important points.
August 23rd, 2008 at 5:12 pm
There are no American tourist hordes? Why invite them?!
We met a few around the place, so they’re certainly there. After two and half years travelling Europe, Croatia is a place I really want to get back to. We’re eyeing up South America now, so next time.
August 23rd, 2008 at 7:17 pm
I just wanted you to know how inspiring what your doing is to so many. I travel around the world for Jet Set Life and know how rare it is to find someone of your caliber doing this type of quality work. Nice Job!
August 23rd, 2008 at 11:15 pm
Hey Christine,
Long time! Glad to see your visit to Croatia went well. I´ve wanted to visit since 1998, when their soccer team made it all the way to the semi-finals at the World Cup in France. That is when Croatia came to exist for me and one school report later on the country, I was even more hooked.
Anthonys last blog post..A Bittersweet Night
August 24th, 2008 at 2:20 am
I have to say, living in Eastern Europe, thanks for having a proclamation about Croatia. Many Hungarians go on sailing trips around the islands, it’s a very pop destination. Looking forward to reading more!
NewWrldYankees last blog post..Cost of Living/Traveling Overseas - Up, Up, and Away!
August 24th, 2008 at 1:36 pm
My husband and I (two Americans) spent part of our honeymoon in Croatia in 2000, renting a car in Dubrovnik and driving all the way up the coast until Trieste in Italy. Beautiful! As it was early October, all the tourists had gone home from the beaches already and we had amazing medieval towns all to ourselves.
Although it doesn’t have the coastline like Croatia, Slovenia next door is another great destination without too many tourists.
Audreys last blog post..Bogartin’ on Gordi
August 25th, 2008 at 4:23 am
Croatia is still on the list. Pictures I’ve seen from Dubrovnik, Split, etc are just stunning.
Lolas last blog post..Postcard: Mercy
August 25th, 2008 at 8:42 am
I would love to hear more about Croatia, as it’s one of the places I definitely want to see. Every picture I have ever seen is stunning.
Chad @ Sentient Moneys last blog post..Banks Failing…Good News?
August 26th, 2008 at 7:08 pm
I would love to explore more of Croatia. But one place that really struck me was Plitvice Lakes. It is a bit out of the way but makes for a wonderful day communing with nature (and quite a few tourists, probably including Americans…). But the lakes and forests and waterfalls make for a remarkable sight.
Mark Hs last blog post..Bacon Beer and Bishops (Bamberg, Germany)
November 7th, 2008 at 4:19 am
What do u mean by American tourists i never knew american is race
do u mean the 1 milion croation blood citzens in america.
Yugoslavia means south slavs formed by Tito serbia,croatia,slovenia
croatia and slovenia before were under austrian rule .Serbia had its own kingdom
Bosnia has serbs, croatian and muslims from turkish empire these are croatian blood mixed with turks and have lost there slavic identity.You can tell bosinas because they can have large turkish shape heads but have fair features
Before slavs lived Illyrians or present day Albanians
The diocletion palace in split was built by an albania not roman who retired back to hes homeland.
Dubrovnik used to be an independent country called rugasa this was the first country to recognize Americas independence.
Hungarians are huns an asian tribe similar to turks from mongolia there language is not european and sounds a touch like turk or even korean.
However there is a lot of slavic and germanic blood . Its quite easy to recoginze the diffrence . Slavs tend to have a bit higher cheekbones than germans and the huns, hungarians have large round non european eyes.
I think what makes croatia attractive is its orignal. Not multicultural as
its not yet influnced by washington. Also its very clean
Its central position mean the weather is just right not to north or south
Its very diverse for small country . Slavonia -inland south is one of the most fertile places in europe .The people are large and stocky build.
North is zagreb area which has a lot of green hills and austrian influnce in buildings/towns
people tend to be a bit more formal but not as boring as german/nordic people
The sea coast has a lot of nice orignal towns . The croatian people here are tall and tanned they are also more laid back.
Croatian /Serbian language is the same except for a few words
Slovenian is diffrent language but has similar words.
large problem of the war was serbs were put in croatia by austrians as defence for the ottaman/turkish empire. Serbs also took control of the yugoslavian army which was the 4th largest army in europe and most of all greed.
Yugoslavia shows the world multiculturlism dose not work - there alway a greedy power sucking the minority dry.most of the broblems in the balkans are due to the ottoman/turk empire. We still survived under centeries of germanic rule
thankyou