The Graffiti of Lisbon
07. Aug, 2008 
16 Comments
The image above is me praying for silence. I can’t hear myself think, the music is at a solid level eight here at the Hostel Lemon in Portugal. This place is a little different than the other hostels I’ve stayed in, as it’s difficult to avoid the party– there is only one common room, and being a slave to Wifi I find myself here in my downtime.
This trip was inspired by Lily, who couldn’t rave about Lisbon enough, and by the others that seconded her opinion. To be honest, at first I wasn’t impressed. 
If you’re in the wrong part of Lisbon, then head down to the waterfront expecting something other than a train station and some 10 foot tall barricades, you might be a tad disappointed. I’ve have been reformed. After that first hour, wondering what the heck I was doing in the graffiti capital of the world (an honorary title from me), I have developed a little crush on Lisbon. Madrid is very jealous. Paris isn’t returning my calls.
Yesterday when I posted that Lisbon, “Is falling apart beautifully”, understand that it’s mostly cosmetic. The paint is peeling, the plaster beneath that is crumbling and the bricks beneath that are peeking out and cracked. Where Paris has a strict code about facade style, Lisbon seems to have hired a team of renegade graffiti artists, gotten them drunk, and set them loose on the town. In fact in those first moments, when I was disappointed with Lisbon, I have to admit the constant graffiti had something to do with it. But now I’m charmed. I don’t know why, but it seems ok. Naturally there are areas of town more saturated than others, but I say bring it on. There is something very beautiful about this decaying buildings, filthy and full of graffiti, with uneven cobblestone streets. Or at the very least you get used to it, and barely even notice that the last three blocks looked like this:
(There is much more to this city than the graffiti, but I wanted to share a little slice of what you won’t find in Frommer’s).
Y’know, I find that to be a problem in Madrid. So much beauty! So much elegance! And so much graffiti :/ Seems like Lisboa is a cousin of Madrid in that aspect. Although some of it is creative, artistic. If all of it were like that, it wouldn’t such an eye sore. Please tell us more about Lisboa, seeing how I only have a negative idea of it thanks to my parents visit there many a year ago.
Antoninis last blog post..The Liberation of Anthony
Call me boring but can’t see anything very charming about graffiti plastered everywhere over a city. The really elegant creative graffiti is OK but it seems to be an overwhelming amount of pure vandalism if your photos are alything to go by. I await with interest as to the highlights of this historic city.
Mark Hs last blog post..From Dead Duck to Bird Heaven (Bharatpur, India)
Love your commentary on Lisbon, and the pictures. Sounds like a city that grows on you, which can be fantastic! I can’t wait to hear more about the things you have seen.
I completely agree with not being impressed at first: the first day I wondered what the noise was about. But the next few days proved me wrong!! Lisbon really does grow on you…the more you discover, the more you get attached. It’s so much more interesting than squeaky clean Madrid, and a few days are not nearly enough but youll be glad you went. Just wait till you experience the fado nights, the cool cafes (ask locals – def not in Fodor’s!), walk the Alfama district etc… and the diverse food/dining options are fabulous – anything from Chinese to Italian to West African to of course, Portuguese food…
Antonini- I’ve found that Lisboa has much graffiti than Madrid. I’ve been living in Madrid for the past month, but I was still shocked at the graffiti here! It think it depends on what part of the city you’re in. I happen to be staying in the Barrio Alto, which is some of the worst in the city.
Mark– No I resemble your remarks. I was a little sad by it at first, but I don’t know you really do get used to it and it doesn’t seem that bad!
Lori, Lily– more to come! I have great pics from Sintra, can’t wait to share.
Yes, Lisbon really is one of those cities that you don’t understand at first sight. It’s also quite different from most other capitals, but once it casts its spell on you, you’ll love it.
As for Frommers and Fodors not giving you the real picture or “soul” of the place (not the mention not listing the cool cafes someone complained about in one of the comments), that’s why you must always search online first.
For anyone visiting Lisbon, take a look at the http://www.GoLisbon.com website. You’ll find all the information you need there.
Oh I can’t wait, I wasn’t able to make it to Sintra, I heard it’s lovely!
And yes the Barrio Alto has some sketchy parts!! But I don’t think it’s fair to say everywhere has graffiti. What city doesn’t. Parts of DC are riddled with it too. All depends ok what area you go to, as Christine said.
Though I can appreciate some graffiti–the kind that shows some kind of artistic talent–I can’t find any real value in the scribbles. Athens has a lot of graffiti too, and though I lived there for a year, it never grew on me. It just seemed like vandalism and a lack of respect for place and property.
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I am with Mark H and Theresa. Graffiti as an expression of art is awesome, I love it. But the scribbles are vandalism and they are ugly, dirty… people do this to mark their territories, just like dogs do.
BTW, I like the dog stencil!
Wow! And I thought the train and metro stations in Paris were covered in graffiti…I guess everything is relative.
Tanyas last blog post..Island Getaway
My favorite graffitti picture is from Lisboa: “Without truth you are the looser.”
Indeed!
Have you made it over to Sintra??
Julies last blog post..Luz, Suenos, y Esperanza/Light, Dreams, & Hope
Seems like a fascinating place. I remember the graffiti ridden trains oNYC in teh 80′s when I was growing up. I think if you’re around it enough, it become part of the scenery and you get used to it. Some of it is an eye-sore, but some can also be beautiful. You just never know.
sdg1844s last blog post..On Vacation
Even India is full of graffiti but I find Europe’s graffiti more interesting. I agree with some here that it’s an art.
I really love your blog!!
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