Tomatocation: The Hottest Vacation Trend This Side of Valencia

on 8-18-2008 in Travel Advice, Travel Lifestyle

Spain, Valencia, La Tomatina, Travel Photography, gross

Sure you’ve heard of a vacation: it’s the measly two week period you end up using up for doctor’s appointments and your cousin’s wedding. And the “staycation”? Well don’t get me started– you might as well call suicide watch on anyone that tries to convince you that sitting in the house for a week watching Oprah re-runs and getting sloppy drunk is a sign of a healthy work-life balance.

No here in Spain, they’ve got their priorities straight. If you’re going to travel half way around the world to see this fine country, you might as well throw tomatoes at people and call it a day. Tomatocation, err, I mean La Tomatina, is just that– a one day event in a week long festival, with 40,000 of your best friends, drinking before 8 AM and then taking truckloads of overripe tomatoes and chucking them. But someone must first climb the greased poll and reach the ham– which I’ve decided to work into my own life. “Hello, thank you for coming, please go climb that greased poll over there and pull down the ham or this party will never start. A bottle of wine? You shouldn’t have. Now get climbing.”

I’d like to tell you that there is more to the famous La Tomatina, but simplicity is the key. There are little rules other than “be nice” and with a crowd of this size, it was an amazingly feel-good atmosphere, which makes for less of a Tomato Fight than a Tomato Toss.

I even got the husband (Drew) out of the apartment– specifically for yesterday’s event and later he waxed philosophically about “next year”. (Um, sweetie, does that mean we will still be traveling in a year? Success!)

Spain, Valencia, La Tomatina, Travel Photography, gross

(The husband pretending to lick the front of the tomato truck.  Boys are gross.)

From Croatia with Love–Split to Brač and in between

on 8-18-2008 in Travel Advice, Travel Lifestyle

I took the overnight ferry from Italy to Croatia, landing in the city of Split. Usually when you land in the sea port, you’re down by “the docks” in some quasi-industrial section of town, where you have to walk 30 minutes just find a taxi to get you back to civilization. In Split, you land about 100 m from the main strip. I was so confused by this, that I actually kept walking, until I circumnavigated the downtown area and convinced myself, that yes, this was it.

travel photographers, Split, Croatia, Beautiful

The main attraction downtown is the Palace of Diocletian, around which there is a maze of streets– each boasting shops, cafes and restaurants. There are some ruins in the area, and the picture below about is a good example. If you peek through that window you can see a ferry boat in the marina. That’s how close everything is.
travel photographers, Split, Croatia, Beautiful
There were tiny skinny cats all over the place, and while they weren’t friendly, they did lounge on the canopies of the fruit market or as below, on any unoccupied doorstep.
travel photographers, Split, Croatia, Beautiful
From Split, I took the ferry to the neighboring island of Brač. It’s a 45 minute ride from Split to Supetar and as one Croatian woman told me, “You haven’t been to Split if you don’t go to the islands.”
travel photographers, Split, Croatia, Beautiful
From Supetar, I rented a car and drove around the island. I found the village Ložišća (below), and the main road winds through this beautiful town.

travel photographers, Split, Croatia, Beautiful
From the other side of the island near Sumartin, you can actually see the mainland Croatia again, the picture below is one I took standing on a hill with a 360 view of the Adriatic sea, the Croatian coast, the town of Sumartin below, and the island of Hvar. I couldn’t fit it all the frame, but here is the Croatian coastline as seen from the island of Brač.
travel photographers, Split, Croatia, Beautiful
And what trip would be complete without saying hello to the local animals. This little guy wanted to eat my camera. Or at least nibble it a little.
Croatia, Split, tourism, trip around the world, safety

Why You Should Go to Croatia (I’m Talking to You, Americans)

on 8-18-2008 in Travel Advice, Travel Lifestyle

Croatia, Split, tourism, trip around the world, safety

When I announced that I planned to go to Croatia, it was based on a photo I had seen online. It was taken from within a door frame, peering out towards brilliant blue water just few feet away. I thought, “Wow, I have to go there.” When I arrived, I soon found that many others agreed with me, and the country that occupies the coastline across the Adriatic sea from Italy was just as beautiful as that fateful photo.

However as I traveled, I noticed something strange. I didn’t met a single American.  This was part of Europe (Croatia will enter the EU around 2010 if things go well) and unlike other European cities I’ve visited, I seemed to be the only one with that familiar blue passport.  Why were Americans missing out on the worst kept secret in Europe?

Croatia has a brand name problem

Croatia, Split, tourism, trip around the world, safetyFirst of all, “Croatia” didn’t always exist. Before 1990 it was part of the former Yugoslavia. When a few countries declared independence and the area later fell into civil war, the Bosnians, Serbs, and Croats made news for 5 years as they fought, signed peace accords and started fighting again. Not exactly the kind of PR that says “visit here”.

Perhaps this is why Americans have kept their distance? I have to admit, I had an embarrassingly poor knowledge of the dissolution of Yugoslavia and following civil war, despite it happening in my lifetime. A little research fixed this. The civil war is long since over, and Croatia even boasts a low crime rate. If you want to read more about it, Wikipedia offers an overview of the history. Also the US State Department has an official summary (and no travel warnings).

It’s safe, but is it that good?

Croatia, Split, tourism, trip around the world, safetyLet me put it this way. If you like azure water, sheltered beaches, cheap prices, ancient architecture, friendly people, access to islands and seafood, then um, yes, you might like it a little. However, there are the beginnings of a tourist culture: stands have popped up selling flip flops and t-shirts, English is widely spoken, and tour boats litter the marina. But compared to the Caribbean, Hawaii, Mexico, the French Riviera, or Greece– Croatia is truly in its infancy. Tourism only picked up in 2000, and I predict it will be a couple more years before the Hilton builds a 16 swimming pool monstrosity that blocks the view for all but the most affluent. For now, it’s a sleepy coastal town that hasn’t quite figured out what to make of all these people who descend every summer.

Once Croatia enters the EU (~2010), prices may go up or they may attract the attention of international hotel developers. Until then, it’s all yours. A place so small that you’ll recognize fellow travelers in town or get to know your waiter’s kids as they sit at the table next to you.  In short, it’s unexpected.

[Author's note:  Edited to make clear that the civil war was after Croatia declared independence and removed reference to Hungarians.  Alas, this is what you get when you use the web as a reference.]

All Venice Needs is a Ferris Wheel

on 8-18-2008 in Travel Advice, Travel Lifestyle

Venice, Italy, Europe, Touristy, Theme Park, trip around the world

Venice in August is a theme park.  You bus in from the airport.  It drops you at the Palazzo Roma, where every other bus unloads hundreds of tourists per hour.  You wait in line.  You pay too much for a ticket.  You get on the first ride, a ferry that takes you down the grand canal.  Wee!  The wind blows through your hair.  You take pictures of the pretty buildings.  The ferry stops and everyone disembarks for the plaza.  You buy a souvenir from one of the many kiosks lining the streets, maybe a gondilier hat or a postcard.  You walk around St. Mark’s, eavesdropping on tours conducted in Korean, Spanish and German (not all at once).  You eat gelato.  You get back in line.  Someone’s kid is throwing a tantrum in Dutch.  You give the parents a half smile.  What ride next?  A ferry around the perimeter of the island?  A ride in the gondolier?  A private water taxi to the next square?

The truth is, I loved it.  It was August, hot, crowded, touristy, and gimmicky at times (do the gondolier guys really need to wear those hats?  The same ones they sell at the tourist stands?).  But the city is amazing.  I knew I wouldn’t have a chance to see Venice again for some time, so I took it.  If you can look beyond the trappings of the high season, you can imagine what Venice must be like in the spring or fall.  The winding back alleys, quiet nooks and ancient buildings, framing a leisurely walk to lunch.  An afternoon nap on a gondola as you slowly drift through silent canals.  An evening glass of wine overlooking a plaza where couples walk, pigeons casting off in their wake.

Someday, I have to bring my husband here.  Preferably not in August.

5 Clues It’s Time to Change Hostels

on 8-18-2008 in Travel Advice, Travel Lifestyle

I schlepped my backpack, laptop and camera across town, getting properly lost along the way.  The 5 minute walk turned into an hour long hike, as I overshot my destination and searched in the wrong neighborhood.  Finally I climbed four flights of stairs and knocked on the hostel door.  “Hello?  Hostel?”  The woman shook her head and said I should try floor 2.  This was the best part of my experience at the Hostel “Palacida”.  What should have tipped me off?  Let’s see:

1.  The sign for the hostel was a yellow piece of paper taped to the door.  It said “Best Hostel in The World!” and Hostel “Palacida” was scribbled beneath it.

2.  The place was family run, which was fine, except when I asked about connecting to the internet, the son came out in skivvies to help trouble shoot.  It’s hard to maintain eye contact when someone is in their underwear (briefs) and tugging at themselves.  I’m just sayin’.

3.  Confusion abounds.  They asked me to check in, so I said, “Ok”.  The mother said, “Here sit”.  I sat.  The daughter came in, “It’s 1130 AM you have to check in.”  She looked annoyed.  I said, “I am, the other woman, just came and told me she was getting my reservation.”  I was trying to be nice.  She was pissed.  “You mean my mother?” she asked.  (How in the world did I offend her by not knowing she was related I have no idea).  “Well you have to give her your passport.  Did she take your passport?”  Sigh.  Ok take it, I’m really not fighting this.

4.  I asked four people if they had internet, and three of them waved at me dismissively.  I wasn’t getting this body language for “ya right”, so I persisted.  Finally the mother confessed they had to shut off the internet because it too expensive.  I could go to the cafe next door and use their internet.  They opened in 4 hours… I wasn’t going to hold my breath.

5.  And finally, they locked me out.  I came home at midnight, and they would not open the door.   My cell phone doesn’t allow me to make calls in Croatia.  I banged on the door.  I waited.  I banged again.  No luck.  I ended up paying full price for a different hotel for the night.

So in the end, the “Best Hostel in the World” was not so good.  I picked up my backpack that morning and found a perfectly normal hostel even closer to town.  And they have internet.  And most everyone is clothed appropriately.