When the shuttle bus stopped just 20 minutes away from downtown Brussels, there was a collective moan. We had just flown RyanAir from Madrid with a four hour delay and this pit stop definitely couldn’t be good. The bus driver said something in French at the front of the bus, that most of us didn’t catch in the back. We watched as the message was translated back through the bus from French to English to Italian to French again, before someone close enough to our seats announced in English, “We’re waiting for a new bus”. An Italian behind us asked us in English what was happened. He translated for his companion. The Spanish couple understood our English and translated into Spanish for the rest of the bus. This elaborate international game of telephone is the chaos that Brussels lives in everyday. No one speaks the same language, but everyone gets by asking, “French? English? Spanish? Italian?” until they find a shared second or third language. If you’re an expat, it’s a great place to live. The stigma of speaking in a foreign tongue is removed, as we’re all in the same boat.
Brussels has two official languages, French and Dutch. It’s uncommon to not see advertisements or street signs translated in both languages. Like most places in Europe, English is also the del facto tourist language (even the taxi drivers are perfectly fluent). Unlike most of Europe it also has a high immigration rate which puts non-Belgiums at anywhere from 37- 50% of the population (depending on the source). We were introduced this fact quickly as we met up with Drew’s high school friend from the States. In the process, we met with a Spaniard dating a Frenchman, an American engaged to an Italian, two people from Wales, and their friends from France, Colombia, Spain, Italy, UK and US. A common introduction would be to list the languages you understood. At one point, I ended up talking about the different accent in Andulucia with a French research scientist in Spanish.
It sounds confusing, but it was actually refreshing. If I was going to learn French I would move to Brussels over Paris, hands down. While Paris remains the hub of Western Europe, Brussels has found a way to cope with being a modern day tower of Babel.
All of this lends itself to a city that embraces everything. You can find a pizzera with authentic Italian pizza, have drinks in an Irish pub, eat mussels and frites in an outdoor cafe or dine on greek, mexican or chinese take out. But if you go, you must have a real Belgium waffle with fresh strawberries. You can thank me later.
July 21st, 2008 at 7:49 pm
Brussels is absolutely one of my favorite cities in all of Europe. The people, the food, the diversity… it’s wonderful! The beer is pretty good too (ahh… I’d love a Stella right now!).
Have fun!!
Loris last blog post..Travel Ideas - Let’s Go “Local”
July 21st, 2008 at 9:18 pm
I haven’t been to Brussels–yet–but I love any city that can embrace so many differences!
Julies last blog post..How to Get Your FM-3 Residency Visa in Mexico
July 22nd, 2008 at 5:09 am
For me though I find it sad that it’s quite rare that one of the many languages spoken is Dutch - most French-speaking Belgians I know speak little or no Dutch, and most of the expats only learn French, which means it’s hard for native Dutch speakers to speak their own language in their own capital city.
Aside from that though, it is a wonderful place. Definitely some of the finest food in the world.
Geoffs last blog post..Istanbul
July 22nd, 2008 at 9:11 am
Sounds a lot like China, linguistically. I live in Guangdong, home of the Cantonese dialect. China’s official language is Mandarin. It’s not unusual to hear Cantonese translated to Mandarin and then English, or any combination of the three.
Signs in two languages? That’s like being in Canada.
Steves last blog post..bbq at the night market
July 22nd, 2008 at 9:26 am
The waffles were definitely a treat, and the fries are amazing. I’ve only seen a bit of Belgium, but I liked Brugges a bit better than Belgium. It’s a charming town.
Theresas last blog post..My First Time Abroad
July 22nd, 2008 at 10:16 am
Definitely one of the most culturally diverse cities in Europe.
If you’ve got some time, head over to Bruges (Brugge)
Lolas last blog post..Postcards: African Weddings Abroad
July 22nd, 2008 at 10:20 am
All of the big Flemish cities are great - Brugge gets all the attention, but Ghent (Gent) and Antwerp (Antwerpen) are both fantastic as well, and often overlooked.
Geoffs last blog post..Istanbul
July 22nd, 2008 at 11:13 am
So true about the language/foreigner thing. I have a friend in France who grew up in Brussels, has a German dad, a Portuguese mom (they still live there), and speaks like 5 languages!
Tanyas last blog post..Fun in the Sun?
July 22nd, 2008 at 7:28 pm
Your posts are great! Not only are they are helping me get through planning my trip, but they are making me feel better everyday about taking the plunge. I have posted a link to your webpage from my blog
Currently, I am experiencing much of the same things you did - i.e. Senioritis, and rolling over in the mornings thinking about that never ending job…
Hope you don’t mind - but I like your style of leaving questions at the end of your blogs. Great discussion pieces!
Kudos,
Anna
Annas last blog post..Don’t Get Fired!
July 23rd, 2008 at 3:51 pm
The more I read this blog, the more excited I become about traveling again. I’ve been in stasis for about a decade and it’s time to get on the road again. What a great story and totally indicative of life here on this amazing planet.
sdg1844s last blog post..Happy, Happy, Joy Joy!
July 31st, 2008 at 3:00 pm
Did you get stuck flying into Beauvais Airport near Paris (instead of Charleroi aiport), and then taking a bus to Brussels ? My husband and I went to Brussels in early June with Ryan Air and we had the same thing happen to us! We arrived in Brussels 5 hours after we were supposed to. Apparently they’re still having some major fog problem issues at Charleroi!
I’m with you on Brussels…amazing city. By the way, I absolutely love your blog. Thanks for sharing! Julia